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Hemel Hempstead is a town in Hertfordshire,
England,
United
Kingdom with a population of 81,143 at the
United Kingdom Census 2001 (but now estimated at around 89,000
by
Hertfordshire County Council). Developed after World War
II as a new town, it has
existed as a settlement since the 8th century.
It is part of the district (and borough since 1984) of Dacorum and the
Hemel Hempstead constituency.
Geography
Hemel Hempstead is located at Latitude 51° 45'N and Longitude 0° 28' 20" W and is north west of Central London.Hemel Hempstead grew up in a shallow chalkland valley at the confluence of the rivers
Gade
and Bulbourne.
The main
railway line from London Euston to
the Midlands passes
through Apsley
and
Hemel Hempstead railway stations a mile to the south of the
town centre, as does the Grand
Union Canal. These communication links, as well as the original
A41 trunk
road, all follow the natural course of the Bulbourne river
valley. The new town expansion took place up the valley sides
and on to the hilltop plateau above the original Old Town. In the
1990s, a motorway style bypass was built further to the south and
west of the town and numbered as the A41, which does not follow the
natural lie of the land. Hemel is also linked to the M1 motorway
to the east. The M25 is a few
miles to the south. To the north and west lie mixed farm and
woodland with scattered
villages, part of the Chiltern
Hills. To the south lies Watford and the
beginnings of the Greater
London conurbation. To the east
lies St
Albans an historic cathedral and market town
and now like Hemel Hempstead, part of the London
commuter belt.
Possibly the best view of Hemel Hempstead in its
physical setting is from the top of Roughdown Common, a chalk hill
to the south of the town, at .
Origin of the name
The settlement was called by the name Henamsted or Hean-Hempsted, i.e. High Hempstead, in Anglo-Saxon times and in William the Conqueror's time by the name of Hemel-Amstede. The name is referred to in the Domesday Book as "Hamelamesede", but in later centuries it became Hamelhamsted.Another opinion is that Hemel probably came from
"Haemele" which was the name of the district in the 8th century and
is most likely either the name of the land owner, or could mean
"broken country". [4]
Pre-World Wear
II residents affectionately knew it simply as "Hempstead".
Present day residents say simply "Hemel".
The modern Dutch place names of Haamstede and
Heemstede
probably have a similar root which means homestead.
The town may have given its name to the town of
Hempstead,
New York.
History
Remains of Roman villa farming settlements have been found at Boxmoor and Gadebridge which span the entire period of Roman Britain.The first recorded mention of the town is the
grant of land at Hamaele by Offa,
King of Essex, to the Saxon Bishop of
London in AD 705.
Hemel Hempstead on its present site is mentioned
in the Domesday
Book of 1086 as a vill,
Hamelhamstede, with about 100 inhabitants. The church of St Mary was built
in 1140, one of the finest Norman
parish
churches in the county. The church features an unusual tall
spire, added in the 12th
century, one of Europe's tallest.
After the Norman
conquest the land thereabouts was given to Robert, Count of
Mortain, the elder half-brother of William
the Conqueror, as part of the lands associated with Berkhamsted
Castle. The estates passed through many hands over the next few
centuries including Thomas
à Becket in 1162. In 1290 King John of
England's grandson, the Earl of
Cornwall, gave the manor to the religious order of
the Bonhommes when he
endowed the monastery
at Ashridge. The town
remained part of the monastery's estates until the Reformation and
break-up of Ashridge in 1539.
In that same year the town was granted a Royal
charter by King
Henry VIII to become a Bailiwick with
the right to hold a Thursday market and a fair on Corpus
Christi Day. The first Bailiff of Hemel Hempstead was William
Stephyns (29 December
1539). The
King and Anne Boleyn
are reputed to have stayed in the town at this time.
Unusually fine medieval wall paintings from
the period between 1470 and 1500 were discovered in some cottages
in Piccotts
End, very close to Hemel Hempstead in 1953. This same building
had been converted into the first cottage
hospital providing free medical services by Sir Astley
Cooper in 1827.
Hemel's position on the shortest route between
London and
the industrial Midlands put it on
the Sparrows
Herne turnpike Toll road in
1762, the Grand
Junction Canal in 1795 and the
London and Birmingham Railway in 1837. However it remained
principally an agricultural market town
throughout the 19th century. In the last decades of that century
development of houses and villas for London commuters began. The
Midland
railway built a branch line connecting to its mainline at
Harpenden
in 1877 (see The Nicky
Line). Hemel steadily expanded, but only became a borough on
13 July
1898. During
World
War II, a stick of Luftwaffe bombs
demolished houses at Nash Mills. The nearby Dickinson factories
were used to produce munitions and were the target.
After World War
II, in 1946, the government designated Hemel Hempstead as the
site of one of its proposed New Towns
designed to house the London Blitz
displaced population of London where slums
and bombsites were being cleared. On 4 February
1947 the
Government purchased of land and began work on the "New Town". The
first new residents moved in during April 1949 and the town
continued its planned expansion through to the end of the 1980s.
Hemel grew to its present population of 80,000, with new
developments enveloping the original town on all sides. The
original part of Hemel is still known as the "Old Town".
Its geographical position, between London and the
Midlands, acted again in the 1960s when the M1 motorway
was routed just to the east of the town. This gave it a central
position on the country's motorway network.
In the 1970s, the town decided to abolish its
mayor and set up in place
a district
council. The first chairman of that council was Chairman John
Johnson (1913-1977). In the 1980s, the town then decided to revert
back to its original state, with a mayor. The political atmosphere
of the town has changed significantly. Once a Labour
Party stronghold, the town has seen an increase in Conservative
Party voting in recent years, and the current Member of
Parliament, Mike
Penning, is Conservative.
As of the 2001
census, Hemel Hempstead is the most populated urban area in
Hertfordshire,
narrowly more populated than its traditionally "larger" rival,
Watford.
There was a major explosion in the town at the
Hertfordshire Oil Storage Terminal, Buncefield at 6am on Sunday
11
December 2005. (See
2005 Hertfordshire Oil Storage Terminal fire). This was one of
the largest explosions ever to occur in the UK, and the
incident has been described as the biggest of its kind in peacetime
Europe. The
Maylands Avenue industrial estate was severely damaged and much of
it needed to be demolished. Nearby residential districts of
Adeyfield,
Woodhall
Farm and Leverstock
Green were also badly damaged and around 300 people made
temporarily homeless. There were 41 people with minor injuries and
two were seriously hurt. The only reason that no one was killed was
because the explosion occurred before dawn on a Sunday.
New town
- Warner's End
- Woodhall Farm - A housing estate on the western edge of town towards Redbourn. Woodhall Farm was built in the mid to late 1970s on the former Brock's Fireworks site with a mix of private and housing association stock. Built by Fairview Estates it has property ranging from four-bedroom detached houses down to one bedroom low-rise flats. The area has a shopping centre with a Sainsbury's, Newsagents, Takeaway and Off-licence. It also has two infant schools and middle schools and a doctors surgery serving the local area.
Developments since the new town
- Lucas Aerospace - relocated (as TRW Aeronautical Systems) to Pitstone in 2002.
Present day
Hemel Hempstead has a mixture of heavy and light engineering companies and has attracted a significant number of information technology and telecommunications sector companies helped by its proximity to London and the UK motorway network. However, (and again in common with many new towns) it has a much narrower business base than established centres, particularly Watford and St Albans.Significant firms with a local presence
include:
- 3Com, Telecommunications equipment
- ACT (formerly Apricot Computers)
- Aquascutum, Clothing manufacturer
- ASOS.com, UK's largest online fashion retailer
- Bourne Leisure
- BP Oil, petroleum
- BSI Product Services
- Gist Food distribution for Marks & Spencer
- Glanville Consultants, Civil and Structural Engineering Consultants.
- British Telecom, telecommunications
- BSI (British Standards Institution) materials testing
- Steria (formerly Bull (formerly Honeywell)), computers
- DSG International plc (formerly Dixons Group), electrical retailer (global headquarters)
- Dixons, electrical retailer (national headquarters)
- DuPont, petrochemicals
- Epson, Consumer Electronics
- Friedheim International, pre- and postpress printing & bookbinding equipment
- Fujifilm UK HQ electronics and photography
- Hewitt Associates, Human resources (personnel) out-sourcing organisation
- HSBC Bank, call centre
- Kodak, photography - (In March 2005 Kodak announced that it would vacate its central headquarters tower block in Hemel, and will be located on 3Com Campus in Hemel)
- NEXT, clothing (distribution centre)
- Northgate Information Solutions , specialist software for human resources
- Sappi group, paper, at Nash Mills. Has announced the mill will close in 2006
- Unisys, computers
- Waverly TBS, wine and spirits wholesale subsidiary of Scottish & Newcastle
- Xerox Office Supplies, Document supplies, paper development
- Kent's Brushes - has manufactured high quality hair and paint brushes at Apsley since 1901.
Just east of the town is the
Hertfordshire Oil Storage Terminal (HOST), known locally as the
Buncefield complex. This was a major hub on the UK
oil pipeline network (UKOP) with pipelines to Humberside,
Merseyside, and
Heathrow
and Gatwick
airports radiating from here. This was destroyed by a huge
explosion on 11 December
2005. See
2005 Hertfordshire Oil Storage Terminal fire.
Hemel's notable features
Hemel is famous (or perhaps notorious) for its "Magic Roundabout" (officially called the Moor End roundabout, or "The Plough Roundabout" from a former adjacent public house), an interchange at the end of the new town (Moor End), where traffic from six routes meet. Traffic is able to circulate in both directions around what appears to be a main central roundabout (and formerly was such), with the normal rules applying at each of the six mini-roundabouts encircling this central reservation. It is a misconception that the traffic flows the 'wrong' way around the inner roundabout; as it is not in fact a roundabout at all, and as such no roundabout rules apply to it. It was the first such circulation system in Britain.Hemel claims to have the first purpose built
multi-storey
car park in Britain. Built in 1960 into the side of a hill in
the Marlowes shopping district, it features a giant humorous mosaic
map of the area by the artist Rowland
Emett.
The new town centre is laid out alongside
landscaped gardens and water features formed from the River Gade
known as the Watergardens designed by G.A.
Jellicoe. The main shopping street, Marlowes, was
pedestrianised in the early 1990s.
Hemel also was home of one of the first community
based television stations West Herts
TV which later became Channel
10
For many years the lower end of Marlowes featured
a distinctive office building built as a bridge-like structure
straddling the main road. This building was erected on the site of
an earlier railway
viaduct carrying the Hemel to Harpenden
railway, known as The Nicky Line.
When the new town was constructed, this part of the railway was no
longer in use and the viaduct demolished. The office
building, occupied by BP, was designed to
create a similar skyline and effect as the viaduct. In the early
1980s it was discovered that the building was subsiding dangerously
and it was subsequently vacated and demolished. Adjacent to BP
buildings was a unique double-helix public car park. The lower end
of Marlowes was redeveloped into the Riverside shopping complex,
which opened on 27 October
2005.
Retailers taking residence at the Riverside complex, include
Debenhams
and HMV.
A few hundred metres away, overlooking the 'Magic
Roundabout', is Hemel's tallest building; the 19-storey Kodak building. Built
as the Kodak company's UK HQ the tower was vacated in 2005. It was
then temporarily reoccupied in 2006 after the Buncefield explosion
destroyed Kodaks other Hemel offices. It is now being converted
into 434 apartment homes.
The Heathrow
airport holding area known as the Bovingdon
stack lies just west of the town. On a clear day at peak times
the sky above can be seen to be filled with circling
aircraft.
The national headquarters of the Boys'
Brigade is located at Felden Lodge, near Hemel.
A series of 10m high blue steel arches called the
Phoenix Gateway is being built near the roundabout closest to the
Hemel Hempstead junction of the M1 motorway.
The aim is to regenerate the town after the Buncefield explosion
with a striking piece of commercial art. It is Funded by the
East of England Development Agency.
Notable people
Notable people associated with the town in order of birth date:- Sir Francis Bacon - (1561 - 1626) was lord of the manor of Gorehambury which included Hemel Hempstead from 1601.
- Nicholas Breakspear (c. 1100 - 1159), the only English Pope (Adrian IV 1154-1159) was born in nearby Bedmond, a village between Hemel and Abbots Langley.
- Robert Snooks (c. 1761-1802) Englands last highwayman was executed and buried here.
- Sir Astley Cooper (1768-1841) English surgeon and anatomist. Lived at Gadebridge House, the grounds of which are now a public park.
- Joseph Cranstone, set up an engineering works in Hemel Hempstead in 1798. His son, also Joseph, built a steam coach in 1867 which he drove to London but which went disastrously out of control on Stanmore Hill on the return journey.
- John Dickinson 1782 - 1869, inventor and founder of the paper mills at Apsley & Nash Mills which evolved into John Dickenson plc, built and lived at Abbots Wood, Nash Mills.
- Sir Arthur Evans, , (1851 - 1941) archaeologist, was born at "The Red House", Nash Mills.
- Lyn Harding (1867 - 1952) actor and film star lived at a house called Logandene in Tile Kiln Lane, Leverstock Green, Hemel Hempstead.
- Charles Longman, heir to the publisher Longmans and partner to John Dickinson, bought the Shendish estate in 1853 and built an impressive manor house there.
- Roger Moore, actor, famous for his roles as The Saint and James Bond, lived in Tile Kiln Close, Leverstock Green, Hemel Hempstead in the 1960s.
- Bill Morris OJ (born 1938), former leader of the TGWU, lived in Hemel Hempstead and still lives within the Borough of Dacorum.
- Salem Hanna Khamis (1919 – 2005) was a Palestinian economic statistician for the United Nations Food and Agriculture Organization who helped formalise the Geary-Khamis method of computing purchasing power parity of currencies. In later life lived in Hemel Hempstead and died there.
- Christopher Trace (1933 - 1992) first presenter of BBC TV's Blue Peter children's show lived for a time in Blacksmiths Row, Leverstock Green.
- Michael Bradshaw (1933-2001) English/Canadian actor grew up in Boxmoor from 1938 until the mid-50s
- Paul Boateng, (born 1951) Britain's first black Cabinet minister and Ambassador to South Africa, attended Apsley Grammar School (now part of Longdean School).
- Dave Vanian (born 1956)(real name David Letts), the lead singer of The Damned, was born and lived in Chaulden.
- Ian Lygo, famous for his record-breaking 75 consecutive wins on UK Quiz show 100%, lives in Hemel Hempstead.
- Vinnie Jones, (born 1965) footballer and actor, is a local resident.
- Steven Wilson, (born 1967) multi-instrumental musician, singer, songwriter and producer was born here. His band Porcupine Tree was also formed in Hemel Hempstead around the year 1987. His home studio "No-Mans Land" is located here.
- Claire Skinner (born 1965)the distinguished actress was born (1965) and raised in Hemel Hempstead.
- Oliver Low (born 1970) in Hemel Hempstead a poet, software engineer, composer, games designer and author.
- Luke Donald, (born 1977) was born in Hemel Hempstead. He is a golfer who plays mainly on the US based PGA Tour.
- Marc Bircham, (born 1978) currently lives in Hemel Hempstead near the Shendish estate. He is a Canadian footballer who currently plays for Queens Park Rangers in The Championship. He has also figured in the Canada men's national soccer team.
- Anthony Davidson, (born 1979) Formula 1 driver was born here. Formula 1 drivers Christian Klien and Vitantonio Liuzzi live in Apsley.
- Tommy W. Smith, (born 1980) was born in Hemel Hempstead. He is a footballer who currently plays for Watford FC in the FA Premiership.
- Chris Eagles, (born 1985) footballer for Manchester United in the FA Premier League is from Hemel Hempstead.
- Jordan Parkes,(born 1989), an English footballer, currently playing for Watford, is from Leverstock Green.
- Theo Walcott, (born 1989),an English footballer, currently lives with his family in the Hemel Hempstead area.
Television production
Pie in the
Sky (a BBC police drama) was filmed here. The site for the
restaurant is now a real restaurant with the same name.
Nearby places
To the northTo the south
To the west
See also
- The nineteenth century mill town of Apsley now forms part of Hemel Hempstead.
- Hemel Hempstead Gazette
- Hemel Hospital Radio.
Photo gallery
's (1871) stands above the modern Sainsburys
supermarket in Apsley.
References
[1] Edwards, Dennis F.(1994) Hemel Hempstead in old picture postcards European Library, ISBN 90-288-5797-4[2] Hemel Hempstead Directory of 1797
http://www.hertfordshire-genealogy.co.uk/data/directories/directories-hemel-1797-des.htm
- Early description of the town.
[3] Description of Hemel Hempstead (1870-72),
John Marius Wilson,
Imperial Gazetteer of England and Wales.http://www.visionofbritain.org.uk/descriptions/entry_page.jsp?text_id=767460&word=NULL
[4] History of Hemel
Hempstead
[5] Hemel Hempstead - A
History and Celebration
Footnotes
"How historic treasures have devalued a house", Sunday Times, November 12, 2000 by Chris Partridge; p. 15External links
- Dacorum Borough Council Local authority pages on Hemel Hempstead.
- Hemel Web Community web page.
- Hemel on-line Hemel local newspaper 'The Gazette', includes extensive local history pages.
- Photo gallery showing redevelopment of Kodak building
- Hemel Hempstead Local History & Museum Society
- Map of Hemel Hempstead in 1883 from old-maps.co.uk
- www.geograph.co.uk : photos of Hemel and surrounding area
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