Dictionary Definition
anchor
Noun
1 a mechanical device that prevents a vessel from
moving [syn: ground
tackle]
2 a central cohesive source of support and
stability; "faith is his anchor"; "the keystone of campaign reform
was the ban on soft money"; "he is the linchpin of this firm" [syn:
mainstay, keystone, backbone, linchpin, lynchpin]
3 a television reporter who coordinates a
broadcast to which several correspondents contribute [syn: anchorman, anchorperson]
Verb
1 fix firmly and stably; "anchor the lamppost in
concrete" [syn: ground]
2 secure a vessel with an anchor; "We anchored at
Baltimore" [syn: cast anchor,
drop
anchor]
User Contributed Dictionary
English
Etymology
ancor, from ancora, from (or cognate with) . The modern spelling is a sixteenth-century modification to better represent the Latin misspelling anchora.Pronunciation
- (UK): /ˈæŋkə/, /"
Extensive Definition
An anchor is an object, often
made out of metal, that is used to attach a ship to the bottom of a
body of water at a specific point. There are two primary classes of
anchors—temporary and permanent. A permanent anchor is often called
a mooring,
and is rarely moved; it is quite possible the vessel cannot hoist
it aboard but must hire a service to move or maintain it. A
temporary anchor is usually carried by the vessel, and hoisted
aboard whenever the vessel is in motion, hence the term "under
weigh"; it is what most non-sailors mean when they refer to an
anchor. A sea anchor is
a related device used when the water depth makes using a mooring or
temporary anchor impractical. The hole through which an anchor rope
passes is known as a hawsepipe.
An anchor works by resisting
the movement force of the vessel which is attached to it. There are
two primary ways to do this—via sheer mass, and by
"hooking" into the seabed. It may seem logical to
think wind and currents are the largest forces an anchor must
overcome, but actually the vertical movement of waves
develop the largest loads, and modern anchors are designed to use a
combination of technique and shape to resist all these
forces.
An interesting element of
anchor jargon is the term aweigh, which describes the anchor when
it is hanging on the rope, not resting on the bottom; this is
linked to the term to weigh anchor, meaning to lift the anchor from
the sea bed, allowing the ship or boat to move. An anchor is
described as aweigh when it has been broken out of the bottom and
is being hauled up to be stowed. Aweigh should not be confused with
under way, which describes a vessel which is not moored to a dock
or anchored, whether or not it is moving through the water. Thus, a
vessel can be under way (or underway) with no way on (i.e., not
moving).
Development
The earliest anchors were
probably rocks and many rock anchors have been found dating from at
least the Bronze Age.
Many modern moorings still rely on a large rock as the primary
element of their design. However, using pure mass to resist the
forces of a storm only works well as a permanent mooring; trying to
move a large enough rock to another bay is nearly
impossible.
Designs of temporary anchors
A modern temporary anchor
usually consists of a central bar called the shank, and an armature
with some form of flat surface (fluke or palm) to grip the bottom
and a point to assist penetration of the bottom; the position at
which the armature is attached to the shank is called the crown,
and the shank is usually fitted with a ring or shackle to attach it
to the cable. There are
many variations and additions to these basic elements—for example,
the whole class of anchors which include a stock such as the
fisherman
and fluke
anchors.
The range of designs is wide,
but there are actually trends in designs for modern anchors which
allow them to be classed as hook, plough, and fluke types,
depending on the method by which they set.
- Plough designs are reminiscent of the antique farm plough, and are designed to bury themselves in the bottom as force is applied to them, and are considered good in most bottom conditions from soft mud to rock. North sea designs are actually a variation of a plough in how they work; they bury into the bottom using their shape.
- Fluke designs use large fluke surfaces to develop very large resistance to loads once they dig into the seabed. Although they have less ability to penetrate and are designed to reset rather than turn, their light weight makes them very popular.
In the past 20 years or so,
many new anchor designs have appeared. Driven by the popularity of
private pleasure boats, these anchors are usually designed for
small to medium sized vessels, and are usually not appropriate for
large ships. See modern
designs.
Fisherman
A traditional design, the fisherman, also known as a kedge (not be confused with a modern-day light kedge anchor), is the most familiar among non-sailors. The design is a non-burying type, with one arm penetrating the seabed and the other standing proud. The anchor is ancient in design and has not changed substantially over time. It has a good reputation for use in rock, kelp, and grass, but is unlikely to be any more effective than a good modern design and its holding power to weight ratio is among the worst of all anchor types. Three piece versions can be stowed quite compactly, and most versions include a folding stock so the anchor may be stowed flat on deck.The primary weakness of the
design is its ability to foul the cable over changing tides. Once
fouled the anchor is likely to drag. In comparison tests the
fisherman design developed much less resistance than other anchors
of similar weight. It is difficult to bring aboard without scarring
the topsides, and does not stow in a hawse pipe or over an anchor
roller. A fouled kedge or killick features on the badges
of Royal Navy non-commissioned officers.
Fluke
The most common commercial
brand is the Danforth, which is sometimes used as a generic name
for the class. The fluke style uses a stock at the crown to which
two large flat surfaces are attached. The stock is hinged so the
flukes can orient toward the bottom (and on some designs may be
adjusted for an optimal angle depending on the bottom type.) The
design is a burying variety, and once well set can develop an
amazing amount of resistance. Its light weight and compact flat
design make it easy to retrieve and relatively easy to store; some
anchor rollers and hawse pipes can accommodate a fluke-style
anchor. A few high-performance designs are available, such as the
Fortress, which are lighter in weight for a given area and in tests
have shown better than average results.
The fluke anchor has
difficulty penetrating kelp and weed-covered bottoms, as well as
rocky and particularly hard sand or clay bottoms. If there is much
current or the vessel is moving while dropping the anchor it may
"kite" or "skate" over the bottom due to the large fluke area
acting as a sail or wing. Once set, the anchor tends to break out
and reset when the direction of force changes dramatically, such as
with the changing tide, and on some occasions it might not reset
but instead drag.
Grapnel
A traditional design, the
grapnel style is simple to design and build. It has a benefit in
that no matter how it reaches the bottom one or more tines will be
aimed to set. The design is a non-burying variety, with one or more
tines digging in and the remainder above the seabed. In coral it is
often able to set quickly by hooking into the structure, but may be
more difficult to retrieve. A grapnel is often quite light, and may
have additional uses as a tool to recover gear lost overboard; its
weight also makes it relatively easy to bring aboard.
Grapnels rarely have enough
fluke area to develop much hold in sand, clay, or mud. It is not
unknown for the anchor to foul on its own rode, or to foul the
tines with refuse from the bottom, preventing it from digging in.
It is quite possible for this anchor to find such a good hook that,
without a trip line, it is impossible to retrieve. The shape is
generally not very compact, and is difficult to stow, although
there are a few collapsing designs available.
CQR/Plough
So named due to its resemblance to a traditional agricultural plough (or more specifically two ploughshares), many manufacturers produce a plough-style design, all based on or direct copies of the original Coastal Quick Release (CQR), a 1933 design by mathematician Geoffrey Ingram Taylor. Owing to a now well established history, ploughs are particularly popular with cruising sailors and other private boaters. They are generally good in all bottoms, but not exceptional in any. The CQR design has a hinged shank, allowing the anchor to turn with direction changes rather than breaking out, and also arranged to force the point of the plough into the bottom if the anchor lands on its side. Another more recent commercial design, the Delta uses an unhinged shank and a plough with specific angles to develop slightly superior performance. Both can be stored in most regular anchor roller systems.Owing to the use of lead or
other dedicated tip-weight, the plough is heavier than average for
the amount of resistance developed, and may take a slightly longer
pull to set thoroughly. It cannot be stored in a hawse
pipe.
The genuine CQR and Delta
brands are now owned by Lewmar, although they have both been
on-sold several times during their lifetimes.
Bruce/Claw
This claw shaped anchor was designed by Peter Bruce from the Isle of Man in the 1970s . Bruce claims the invention to be based on a design used for anchoring floating oil derricks in the North Sea. The Bruce and its copies, known generically as "claws", have become a popular option for smaller boaters. It was intended to address some of the problems of the only general-purpose option then available, the plough. Claw-types set quickly in most seabeds and although not an articulated design, they have the reputation of not breaking out with tide or wind changes, instead slowly turning in the bottom to align with the force.Claw types have difficulty
penetrating weedy bottoms and grass. They offer a fairly low
holding power to weight ratio and generally have to be over-sized
to compete with other types. On the other hand they perform
relatively well with low rode scopes and set fairly reliably. They
cannot be used with hawse pipes.
Bruce Anchor Group no longer
produce the genuine anchor although other companies make
reproductions.
Modern designs
In recent years there has been something of a spurt in anchor design. Primarily designed to set very quickly, then generate high holding power, these anchors (mostly proprietary inventions still under patent) are finding homes with users of small to medium sized vessels.- The German designed Bügel, first built by steel producer WASI, has a sharp tip for penetrating weed, and features a roll-bar which allows the correct setting attitude to be achieved without the need for extra weight to be inserted into the tip .
- The Bulwagga is a unique design featuring three flukes instead of the usual two. It has performed well in tests by independent sources such as American boating magazine Practical Sailor .
- The Spade is a French design which has proved successful since 1996. It features a demountable shank and the choice of galvanized steel, stainless steel, or aluminium construction, which means a lighter and more easily stowable anchor .
- The New Zealand designed Rocna has been produced since 2004. It too features a sharp toe like the Bügel for penetrating weed and grass, sets quickly , and has a particularly large fluke area. Its roll-bar is also similar to that of the Bügel. The Rocna obtained the highest averaged holding power in SAIL magazine's comparison testing in 2006 http://www.hisse-et-oh.com/articles/article.php?article=367 http://www.accademiavelica.it/IT/documentazione/_prova-ancore/index.html.
Designs of permanent anchors
These are used where the
vessel is permanently sited, for example in the case of lightvessels or channel
marker buoys. The anchor
needs to hold the vessel in all weathers, including the most severe
storm, but only
occasionally, or never, needs to be lifted, only for example if the
vessel is to be towed into port for maintenance. An alternative to
using an anchor under these circumstances may be to use a pile
driven into the seabed.
Permanent anchors come in a
wide range of types and have no standard form. A slab of rock with
an iron staple in it to attach a chain to serves very well, as does
a Chevy long-block motor. Modern moorings may be anchored by sand
screws which look and act very much like over-sized screws drilled
into the seabed, or by barbed metal beams pounded in (or even
driven in with explosives) like pilings, or a variety of other
non-mass means of getting a grip on the bottom. One method of
building a mooring is to use three or more temporary anchors laid
out with short lengths of chain attached to a swivel, so no matter
which direction the vessel moves one or more anchors will be
aligned to resist the force.
Mushroom
The mushroom anchor is suitable where the seabed is composed of silt or fine sand. It was invented by Robert Stevenson, for use by an 82 ton converted fishing boat, Pharos, which was used as a lightvessel between 1807 and 1810 near to Bell Rock whilst the lighthouse was being constructed. It was equipped with a 1.5 ton example.It is shaped like an inverted
mushroom, the head becoming buried in the silt. A counterweight is
often provided at the other end of the shank to lay it down before
it becomes buried.
A mushroom anchor will
normally sink in the silt to the point where it has displaced its
own weight in bottom material. These anchors are only suitable for
a silt or mud bottom, since they rely upon suction and cohesion of
the bottom material, which rocky or coarse sand bottoms lack. The
holding power of this anchor is at best about twice its weight
unless it becomes buried, when it can be as much as ten times its
weighthttp://www.inamarmarine.com/pdf/Moorings.pdf.
They are available in sizes from about 10 lb up to several
tons.
Deadweight
This is an anchor which relies
solely on being a heavy weight. It is usually just a large block of
concrete or stone at the end of the chain. Its holding power is
defined by its weight underwater (i.e. taking its buoyancy into
account) regardless of the type of seabed, although suction can
increase this if it becomes buried. Consequently deadweight anchors
are used where mushroom anchors are unsuitable, for example in
rock, gravel or coarse sand. An advantage of a deadweight anchor
over a mushroom is that if it does become dragged, then it
continues to provide its original holding force. The disadvantage
of using deadweight anchors in conditions where a mushroom anchor
could be used is that it needs to be around ten times the weight of
the equivalent mushroom anchor.
Screw
Screw anchors can be used to
anchor permanent moorings, floating docks, fish farms,
etc.
These anchors must be screwed
into the seabed with the use of a tool, so require access to the
bottom, either at low tide or by use of a diver.
Weight for weight, screw
anchors have a higher holding than other permanent designs, and so
can be cheap and relatively easily installed, although may not be
ideal in extremely soft mud.
Anchoring techniques
Heaving an anchor over the
side is not good enough. There are several elements to anchor gear
to be considered, and there are techniques to ensure a good set.
This article can discuss some of this information, but it is by no
means a treatise for safe anchoring.
Anchoring gear
The elements of anchoring gear
include the anchor, the cable (also called a rode), the method of
attaching the two together, the method of attaching the cable to
the ship, charts, and a method of learning the depth of the
water.
Charts are vital to good
anchoring. Knowing the location of potential dangers, as well as
being useful in estimating the effects of weather and tide in the
anchorage, is essential in choosing a good place to drop the hook.
One can get by without referring to charts, but they are an
important tool and a part of good anchoring gear, and a skilled
mariner would not choose to anchor without them.
The depth of water is
necessary for determining scope, which is the ratio of length of
cable to the depth measured from the highest point (usually the
anchor roller or bow chock) to the seabed. For example, if the
water is 25 ft (8 m) deep, and the anchor roller is 3 ft (1 m)
above the water, the scope is the ratio between the amount of cable
let out and 28 ft (9 m). For this reason it is important to have a
reliable and accurate method of measuring the depth of
water.
A cable or rode is the rope,
chain, or combination thereof used to connect the anchor to the
vessel. Neither rope nor chain is fundamentally superior to a
cable, or there would not be continued argument over the issue;
each has its strengths and its weaknesses, however it is not the
purpose of this article to address these.
Anchoring
The four primary questions to
be considered before actually anchoring:
-
- Is the anchorage protected?
- Is the seabed a good holding ground?
- What is the depth, tidal range, and the current tide state?
- Is there enough room?
Is the anchorage protected?
A good anchorage offers
protection from the current weather conditions, and will also offer
protection from the expected weather. The anchorage should also be
suitable for other purposes; for example, proximity to shore is
beneficial if the crew plans to land.
Is the seabed a good holding ground?
Charts should indicate the
type of bottom, and a sounding lead may be used to collect a sample
from the bottom for analysis. Generally speaking, most anchors will
hold well in sandy mud, mud and clay, or firm sand. Loose sand and
soft mud are not desirable bottoms, especially soft mud which
should be avoided if at all possible. Rock, coral, and shale
prevent anchors from digging in, although some anchors are designed
to hook into such a bottom. Grassy bottoms may be good holding, but
only if the anchor can penetrate the foliage.
What is the depth, tidal range, and the current tide state?
If the anchorage is affected
by tide, tide ranges, as
well as the times of high and low water, should be known. Enough
depth is needed so that low tide does not present obstacles to
where the vessel might swing. This is also important when
determining scope, which
should be figured for high tide and not the current tide
state.
Is there enough room?
If the anchorage is affected
by tide, one should keep in mind that the swing range will be
larger at low tide than at high tide. However, no matter where the
vessel is anchored, the largest possible swing range should be
considered, as well as what obstacles and hazards might be within
that range. Other vessels' swing ranges may overlap, presenting a
further variable. Boats on permanent moorings, or shorter scope,
may not swing as far as expected, or may swing either more rapidly
or more slowly (all-chain cables tend to swing more slowly than
all-rope or chain-and-rope cables.)
There are techniques of
anchoring to limit the swing of a vessel if the anchorage has
limited room.
Methods
The basic anchoring consists
of determining the location, dropping the anchor, laying out the
scope, setting the hook, and assessing where the vessel ends up.
After using the chart to determine a desirable location, the crew
needs to actually see what the situation is like; there may be
other boats whose crew thought that would be a good spot, or
weather conditions may be different from those expected, or even
additional hazards not noted on the chart may make a planned
location undesirable.
If the location is good, the
location to drop the anchor should be approached from down wind or
down current, whichever is stronger. As the chosen spot is
approached, the vessel should be stopped or even beginning to drift
back. The anchor should be lowered quickly but under control until
it is on the bottom. The vessel should continue to drift back, and
the cable should be veered out under control so it will be
relatively straight.
Once the desired scope is laid
out (a minimum of 8:1 for setting the anchor, and 5:1 for holding,
though the preferred ratio is 10:1 for both setting, and holding
power), the vessel should be gently forced astern, usually using
the auxiliary motor but possibly by backing a sail. A hand on the
anchor line may telegraph a series of jerks and jolts, indicating
the anchor is dragging, or a smooth tension indicative of digging
in. As the anchor begins to dig in and resist backward force, the
engine may be throttled up to get a thorough set. If the anchor
continues to drag, or sets after having dragged too far, it should
be retrieved and moved back to the desired position (or another
location chosen.)
With the anchor set in the
correct location, everything should be reconsidered. Is the
location protected, now and for the forecast weather? Is the bottom
a suitable holding ground, and is the anchor the right one for this
type of bottom? Is there enough depth, both now and at low tide?
Especially at low tide but also at all tide states, is there enough
room for the boat to swing? Will another vessel swing into us, or
will we swing into another vessel, when the tide or wind
changes?
Some other techniques have
been developed to reduce swing, or to deal with heavy
weather.
Using an anchor weight, kellet or sentinel
Lowering a concentrated, heavy
weight down the anchor line - rope or chain - directly in front of
the bow to the seabed, behaves like a heavy chain rode and lowers
the angle of pull on the anchor. If the weight is suspended off the
seabed it acts as a spring or shock absorber to dampen the sudden
actions that are normally transmitted to the anchor and can cause
it to dislodge and drag. In light conditions, a kellet will reduce
the swing of the vessel considerably. In heavier conditions these
effects disappear as the rode becomes straightened and the weight
ineffective.
Forked moor
Using two anchors set
approximately 45° apart, or wider angles up to 90°, from the bow is
a strong mooring for facing into strong winds. To set anchors in
this way, first one anchor is set in the normal fashion. Then,
taking in on the first cable as the boat is motored into the wind
and letting slack while drifting back, a second anchor is set
approximately a half-scope away from the first on a line
perpendicular to the wind. After this second anchor is set, the
scope on the first is taken up until the vessel is lying between
the two anchors and the load is taken equally on each
cable.
This moor also to some degree
limits the range of a vessel's swing to a narrower oval. Care
should be taken that other vessels will not swing down on the boat
due to the limited swing range.
Bow and stern
Not to be mistaken with the
Bahamian
moor, below.
In the Bow and Stern
technique, an anchor is set off each the bow and the stern, which
can severely limit a vessel's swing range and also align it to
steady wind, current or wave conditions. One method of
accomplishing this moor is to set a bow anchor normally, then drop
back to the limit of the bow cable (or to double the desired scope,
e.g. 8:1 if the eventual scope should be 4:1, 10:1 if the eventual
scope should be 5:1, etc.) to lower a stern anchor. By taking up on
the bow cable the stern anchor can be set. After both anchors are
set, tension is taken up on both cables to limit the swing or to
align the vessel.
Bahamian moor
Similar to the above, a
Bahamian moor is used to sharply limit the swing range of a vessel,
but allows it to swing to a current. One of the primary
characteristics of this technique is the use of a swivel as
follows: the first anchor is set normally, and the vessel drops
back to the limit of anchor cable. A second anchor is attached to
the end of the anchor cable, and is dropped and set. A swivel is
attached to the middle of the anchor cable, and the vessel
connected to that.
The vessel will now swing in
the middle of two anchors, which is acceptable in strong reversing
currents but a wind perpendicular to the current may break out the
anchors as they are not aligned for this load.
Backing an anchor
Also known as Tandem
anchoring, in this technique two anchors are deployed in line with
each other, on the same rode. With the foremost anchor reducing the
load on the aft-most, this technique can develop great holding
power and may be appropriate in "ultimate storm" circumstances. It
does not limit swinging range, and might not be suitable in some
circumstances. There are complications and the technique requires
careful preparation and a level of skill and experience above that
required for a single anchor.
Kedging
Kedging is a technique for
moving or turning a ship by using a relatively light anchor known
as a kedge.
In yachts, a kedge anchor is
an anchor carried in addition to the main, or bower anchors, and
usually stowed aft. Every yacht should carry at least two anchors -
the main or bower anchor and a second lighter kedge anchor. It is
used occasionally when it is necessary to limit the turning circle
as the yacht swings when it is anchored, such as in a very narrow
river or a deep pool in an otherwise shallow area.
For ships, a kedge may be
dropped while a ship is underway, or carried out in a suitable
direction by a tender or ship's boat to enable the ship to be
winched off if aground or swung into a particular heading, or even
to be held steady against a tidal or other stream.
Historically, it was of
particular relevance to sailing warships which used them to
out-maneuver opponents when the wind had dropped but might be used
by any vessel in confined, shoal water to place it in a more
desirable position, provided she had enough manpower.
In Heraldry
An anchor frequently appears
on the flags and coats-of-arms of institutions involved with the
sea, both naval and commercial, as well as of port cities and
sea-coast regions and provinces in various countries.
There also exists in heraldry
the "Anchored
Cross", or Mariner's
Cross, a stylized cross in the shape of an anchor. The symbol
can be used to signify 'fresh start' or 'hope'.
The Mariner's Cross is also
referred to as St.
Clement's Cross in reference to the way this saint was martyred
(being tied to an anchor and thrown from a boat into the Black Sea in
the year 102).
.
Anchored crosses are
occasionally a feature of coats of
arms in which context they are referred to by the heraldic terms anchry or
ancre.
References
- Edwards, Fred; Sailing as a Second Language: An illustrated dictionary, 1988 Highmark Publishing; ISBN 0-87742-965-0
- Hinz, Earl R.; The Complete Book of Anchoring and Mooring, Rev. 2d ed., 1986, 1994, 2001 Cornell Maritime Press; ISBN 0-87033-539-1
- Hiscock, Eric C.; Cruising Under Sail, second edition, 1965 Oxford University Press; ISBN 0-19-217522-X
- Pardey, Lin and Larry; The Capable Cruiser; 1995 Pardey Books/Paradise Cay Publications; ISBN 0-9646036-2-4
- Rousmaniere, John; The Annapolis Book of Seamanship, 1983, 1989 Simon and Schuster; ISBN 0-671-67447-1
- Smith, Everrett; Cruising World's Guide to Seamanship: Hold me tight, 1992 New York Times Sports/Leisure Magazines
External links
- "Ultimate Holding Power" - Anchor Test from Yachting Monthly December 2006
- "Holding Power" - 14 Anchors Tested from SAIL magazine October 2006
anchor in Bosnian:
Sidro
anchor in Bulgarian:
Котва
anchor in Catalan:
Àncora
anchor in Czech: Kotva
(lodní)
anchor in Danish: Anker
(søfart)
anchor in German:
Anker
anchor in Estonian:
Ankur
anchor in Modern Greek
(1453-): Άγκυρα πλοίου
anchor in Spanish:
Ancla
anchor in Esperanto: Ankro
(ŝipo)
anchor in Persian:
لنگر
anchor in French: Ancre
(mouillage)
anchor in Scottish Gaelic:
Acair
anchor in Croatian:
Sidro
anchor in Ido:
Ankro
anchor in Indonesian:
Jangkar
anchor in Italian:
Àncora
anchor in Hebrew:
עוגן
anchor in Latin:
Ancora
anchor in Latvian:
Enkurs
anchor in Lithuanian:
Inkaras
anchor in Dutch: Anker
(schip)
anchor in Japanese:
錨
anchor in Norwegian:
Anker
anchor in Polish:
Kotwica
anchor in Romanian:
Ancoră
anchor in Russian:
Якорь
anchor in Sicilian:
Àncura
anchor in Simple English:
Anchor
anchor in Finnish:
Ankkuri
anchor in Swedish:
Ankare
anchor in Ukrainian:
Якір
anchor in Chinese:
锚
Synonyms, Antonyms and Related Words
Baldt anchor, Navy anchor,
Northill anchor, affix,
anchorage, annex, attach, batten, batten down, belay, berth, billet at, bind, bivouac, bower, bridle, burrow, camp, cast anchor, catch, cement, chain, cinch, clamp, clinch, colonize, come to anchor,
cramp, dinghy anchor,
disembark, dock, domesticate, drag anchor,
drogue, drop anchor, drop
the hook, enchain,
engraft, ensconce, entrammel, establish
residence, fasten, fasten
down, fetter, fix, floating anchor, fluke, glue, graft, grapnel, grapple, gyve, hamper, handcuff, hive, hobble, hog-tie, holdfast, hook, hopple, imbed, inhabit, kedge, kedge anchor, kedge off,
keep house, knit, lash, lash and tie, lay anchor,
leash, live at, locate, mainstay, make fast, make
secure, make sure, manacle, moor, mooring, mooring buoy, moorings, move, mudhook, mushroom anchor,
nest, park, peg down, people, perch, picket, pin, pin down, pinion, plant, populate, put in irons, put to,
relocate, reside, restrain, rivet, roost, rope, screw anchor, screw up, sea
anchor, secure, security, set, set to, set up housekeeping,
set up shop, settle,
settle down, shackle,
shank, sheet anchor, sit
down, slip, squat, stability, stabilizer, stand, starboard anchor, stay at,
stock, straitjacket, strap, strike root, support, take residence at, take
root, take up residence, tether, tie, tie down, tie up, tighten, trammel, trice up, trim